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Lauder, the Leader

The Cosmetic Executive Women honor Leonard Lauder with its lifetime achievement award.

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By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) presented the 39th Annual 2014 CEW Achiever Awards luncheon at New York’s Waldorf-Astoria on Oct. 17, 2014, honoring six of the beauty industry’s most accomplished leaders. It was also a celebration of CEW’s 60th anniversary, marked by the presentation of a special Lifetime Achievement Award to Leonard A. Lauder, chairman emeritus, The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc.

Carlotta Jacobson, president, Cosmetic Executive Women, said, “Welcoming this stellar group of individuals is one of my proudest moments. The achievements of these extraordinary trailblazers are so inspirational.” She added, “The man we are honoring here today has shown great effort empowering women and has recognized the critical role women play in this industry. Leonard Lauder is a great advocate of women in the beauty community.”

Jacobson said that true to the Lauder tradition, the women in the beauty industry today “work harder, longer, and are smarter, making the sacrifices only women can make.”

“To the women gathered in the audience who are on their way up,” said Jacobson, “This is a fabulous industry.”
She asked all the women in the Grand Ballroom to stand up and thanked them for their support, setting the tone for the accolades to come, and she thanked sponsors InStyle, IFF, Arcade Marketing, Beauty Inc, DSM, Mana, Nordstrom Beauty, HCT Group, Ulta, Wells Fargo, HSN, Tengram Capital Partners, WWD, RG3, Links London, Suite K, Consultancy Media and Kaplow Communications, for helping to make the event possible.

A Stellar Lineup
Jacobson congratulated the other honorees, which included Laura Geller, founder, Laura Geller Beauty; Alli Webb, founder, Drybar; Jane Wurwand, founder and chief visionary, Dermalogica, The International Dermal Institute and FITE; Wende Zomnir, chief creative officer/founding partner, Urban Decay Cosmetics; and Sissel Tolaas, scent researcher.

Jill Scalamandre, chief marketing officer, skin care, Coty, and chairwoman of the CEW board, noted that while she had worked with top leaders in the industry, she had never worked with Leonard Lauder. “Leonard helped create a community of competitors who have come together with common goals.” Scalamandre introduced a video featuring industry notables who had worked with Lauder over the years. Lynne Greene, group president, Clinique, Origins, Ojon, Aveda, Darphin, and the Men’s Skincare Group, Estée Lauder Companies, referred to him as “a modern man,” while Claudia Poccia, president/CEO, Gurwitch Products, said, “Leonard was an extraordinary leader and teacher.” Catherine Walsh, chief communications officer, Coty Inc., added, “I will always remember his elegance and how he took the time to write his own thank-you notes.”

Clearly, a picture emerged of a man who was a personage, generous to a fault, and always professional.

Marigay McKee, president, Saks Fifth Avenue, described him as a mentor, colleague, teacher and great friend. “Many of us in the industry have found ourselves asking, ‘what would Leonard do?’ when faced with business challenges. He is not only a teacher but also a benefactor, and great leader. I fell in love with him for his support of female empowerment in the industry,” said McKee.

While Lauder always put the customer first, according to McKee, “His family, children, social causes, and the arts are important parts of the real Leonard Lauder. Philanthropist is also a description I cannot miss,” said McKee, noting his contribution to the Breast Cancer Wing of Sloan Kettering Memorial, and his efforts to raise millions of dollars for breast cancer research. She also mentioned Lauder’s recent contribution of his extensive cubist collection to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, while congratulating him on his recent engagement and upcoming wedding.

A Man for All Seasons
Lauder received a standing ovation as he approached the podium, and immediately captured the attention of the audience with a collegial, confidence-sharing anecdote.

“All of you have worked in beauty, but very few of you have worked for your mother,” he quipped.
He recalled his mother reminding him to comb his hair, noting the importance of one’s appearance, and quoted her as saying, “When sex goes out of the beauty business, so will I.”

Clearly, her appreciation of the gestalt of the beauty industry has not been lost on her son, who thanked all his protégés in the audience, adding a simple philosophy. “In order to get there, you have to dream and I’m a dreamer,” he said. “You can’t get anywhere without dreaming, so keep dreaming. I’ve been in this business for a long time and no time is more exciting than today.”

He acknowledged the work of Fabrizio Freda, president and CEO, The Estée Lauder Companies, and the creative input of the women in the industry.

“The power of women has never been greater than it is today. The wealth of a company is the people who work there. You’re the one who makes the difference, so I invite you to dream, and dream about where you want to be tomorrow. Wherever you are, I’ll be cheering for you,” Lauder said.

Achiever Award Honorees
Tolaas built an archive of fragrances captured by headspace technology, as she traveled around the world. Her collection has reached 6,730 smells, including grass, snow and flowers, and she has taught herself not to have an emotional reaction to fragrance, by smelling with a blindfold, which allows her to relate to scents intellectually rather than emotionally.    

“I smell, I educate, I never stop learning. I encourage all of you to follow your dreams, be brave, and get out there, ladies. Remember, smell everything. Nothing stinks, only thinking makes it so,” she said.

Geller, well known for her Spackle Under Makeup Primer, Baked Color Cosmetics, and lip care, was introduced as the “Dalai Lama of lip gloss.” She accepted the Achiever Award with aplomb, noting, “The beauty industry was life-saving for me. I love people, makeup, and retail. How lucky am I that I found an industry that values my gifts.”

Webb was self-effacing, acknowledging she “was not worthy.” As the creator of Drybar, however, Webb has created a service that satisfies the needs of women every day. She thanked the numerous Drybar participants, employees, partners, and family that have contributed to the success of Drybar.

Share Your Knowledge
Wurwand is not only the founder of Dermalogica, she also created The International Dermal Institute and FITE (Financial Independence Through Entrepreneurship), the Foundation’s program to create pathways to independence for women and girls around the world.
“Share your knowledge generously and it will come back to you tenfold,” she told the audience.

A skin therapist, educator, and trailblazer, Wurwand is known as a woman who takes her work seriously, but not herself.

“This moment is not lost on me. I came here in 1983 from the UK, and began to make my dream a reality,” said Wurwand. “I also read Estée Lauder’s biography and I think it’s incredible that we’re here today honoring her son. Estée Lauder followed her dream, and has been an inspiration for my own extraordinary journey. Write your own script big. Don’t write it too small,” she said, “You can do it too.”

Zomnir, the, final recipient of the afternoon’s honors, spoke about the beginning of her innovative company, Urban Decay, when she introduced such colors as Gash, a deep red lipstick, and eyeshadow called Midnight Cowboy and how she worked hard to walk the fine line between commercial and creative success. It was obvious that her passion for the business runs as deep as her color choices.

“Despite the intense pigments we’re known for at Urban Decay, I wasn’t sure anyone was recognizing our brand, but being recognized here today is like the ultimate gold star,” said Zomnir. “Just being a few feet from Mr. Leonard Lauder is amazing. He’s the biggest rock star of all, right?”

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